Materials used in clocks

Clocks have a history of hundreds of years. Clock materials have been continuously developed, the quality of materials is also constantly improving, and new materials are constantly appearing and being used in the production and manufacturing process of watches.
Clocks use a wide variety of materials with different properties and special surface treatments. Here is a brief introduction to some basic knowledge of watch materials and processes.
The materials used in making clocks fall into two categories: metallic materials and non-metallic materials.

1. Metal materials

The main materials used in watchmaking are copper and steel.

1.Copper

Copper is one of the main materials used in clocks and watches. A metal composed of copper, aluminum and a small amount of lead is called lead brass. Lead brass materials are used in various splints, wheels and dials.

2.Steel

Free-cut steel is one of the main materials for watches. The gear shafts, escapement wheels and miscellaneous parts in the clock movement are all made of free-cut steel.

3.Stainless steel

Stainless steel is also called fine steel. The case, back cover, strap, etc. of watches are mostly made of stainless steel.
(1) Add 12% chromium to steel to make the steel rust-proof in air, water, acid, alkali, and salt. Steel containing less than 12% chromium is prone to rust. This material is magnetic and is not suitable for watch cases.
(2) Another type of stainless steel contains a large amount of nickel as well as chromium, which is called nickel-chromium stainless steel. This material is non-magnetic, has high tensile strength, good ductility, toughness and rust resistance, making it an ideal material for making watch cases. The case and strap are made of 0Cr18Ni9, and the back cover is made of 1Cr18Ni9Ti.
Note: The rust-proof performance of stainless steel is good, but the polishing performance is poor.
(3) The European model is 316L, which is now produced in accordance with the American ASTM standard (equivalent to my country’s 0Cr17Ni12Mo2).
316L stainless steel has relatively good corrosion resistance and wear resistance. The surface does not require electroplating. Only polishing, sandblasting and sandblasting will form different forms of three-dimensional appearance effects. Due to these characteristics, most watch cases and straps are made of stainless steel, and most watch manufacturers use 316L stainless steel.
(4) Labor Ten uses stainless steel 904L (00Cr20Ni25Mo4.5Cu). 904L is harder and more corrosion-resistant, and its price is three times that of 316L. Apart from ROLEX, almost no other company uses it. WatchesHome Watch

4.Precious metals

Metal elements such as gold, silver, and the platinum group are found in small amounts in the earth’s crust and are difficult to develop and extract. Therefore, their prices are high, hence the name precious metals. This type of metal has high density, high melting point, stable chemical properties, and resistance to acids and alkalis. Among them, gold, silver, titanium, and platinum have good plasticity and are widely used in the jewelry and watch industries.

(1) Gold (gold alloy)

1. The cases and straps of high-end watches are mostly made of gold.
2. Pure gold is too soft, and its hardness and strength cannot meet the usage requirements. Gold alloys are generally used in manufacturing. 24K is 100% pure gold, 18K contains 75% gold and is used in the largest amount; followed by 14K and 10K, which are preferred by consumers in the Americas due to their higher hardness and strength. Asia, especially China, prefers 18K gold, and anything lower than 18K does not feel high enough.
3.K gold is divided into gold, red gold, rose gold and other types.
4. Platinum is K gold with a special formula and whitish color. The surface is electroplated with a layer of or, and the color is the same as platinum.
like. Please keep in mind: white gold cannot be polished (unless polished and then electroplated).
5.K gold types: 18K gold is 75% gold + 16% silver + 9% copper; 18K white gold is 75% gold + 3% silver + 9.5% copper + 12.5%; 18K pink gold is 75% gold + 12.5% Silver + 12.5% copper; 18K rose gold is 75% gold + 9% silver + 16% copper; 18K red gold is 75% gold + 5.5% silver + 19.5% copper; color gold: 18K white gold + 18K gold + 18K rose gold .
Other types of K gold include 9K, 10K, 12K and 14K. For example, 14K gold is 58.5% pure gold, 26.5% silver + 15% copper.

(2)Silver and platinum group elements

1. Silver: Early pocket watches mostly used silver cases, which are rare in modern times. Silver is easily oxidized and becomes dark in color after oxidation. By polishing and soaking in “silver washing water”, the oxide layer of silver can be removed to make it as bright as new.
2. Platinum: (English Platinum, abbreviated as Pt) The highest quality of all precious metal materials is platinum. Platinum is expensive, and its purity is expressed by Pt950, Pt900, etc.
3. Platinum group elements: expensive, generally used for surface plating, including platinum, nickel, nickel, nickel, nickel, etc.
Note: Please refer to the precious metal marking section in Section 18 of this chapter.

5. Chin metals and iron alloys

(1) Iron metal Pure iron is silvery white and is a light metal.

The chemical properties of nickel are very active, and it easily interacts with oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen and other elements in the air to form extremely stable compounds on the surface. The nickel metal we usually see is gray-black, with a melting point of (1668 10) C and a density of is 4.5 g/cm3.
The main characteristics of titanium metal are high strength, light weight, corrosion resistance, good medium and low temperature performance, and also has special functions such as superconductivity, memory, and hydrogen storage. The relative density is 50% of stainless steel, and the hardness is worse than stainless steel.

(2) There are not many ferroalloys that actually use pure iron metal.

The so-called ferroalloy metal generally refers to ferroalloy alloys, which are new materials developed in the late 1940s. The 1950s were the research and development stage, and the 1970s were the industrial stage. It entered the application stage in the 1980s and 1990s. Since 2005, more and more brands in the watch industry have begun to use bowl metal, such as Panerai, Tag Heuer, Corum, Tissot, Ball and many other brands.
Chin alloy is synthesized from nickel metal and elements such as aluminum, vanadium, nickel, and platinum.

(3) Tungsten ferroalloy

first presses tungsten carbide and carbide powder into the returned parts at a pressure of 1000Pa, then the die is cast, and then sintered into extremely high-density parts in a special furnace at a high temperature of 1450C. Finally, it undergoes multiple After several steps and polished with diamond powder, a shiny tungsten ferroalloy is made, which has excellent wear resistance.
As early as the 1970s and 1980s, Swiss Rado was the first to use tungsten alloy to make watch cases and straps, which was very popular among market consumers.
6. Carbide
Carbide, also known as tungsten steel, has high hardness, wear resistance, clear lines, smooth and bright appearance, and is called “wear-resistant material”. It can be used in combination with steel to make watch case rings or watch straps or belt grains to increase the corrosion resistance and decorative properties of the shell and belt surfaces.

2. Non-metallic materials

Non-metallic materials are increasingly used in watch production and manufacturing. In addition to traditional rubber, organic glass and artificial diamonds, new materials such as carbon fiber and high-tech ceramics are also widely used.

1.Carbon fiber

Carbon fiber (cabon fber) material is black in color. It is stronger than steel and has a lower relative density than aluminum. It is more corrosion-resistant than stainless steel, more resistant to high temperatures than heat-resistant steel, and can conduct electricity like metal. In terms of electricity, thermal and mechanics New materials with excellent properties.
(1) Overview of carbon fiber In the 1980s, carbon fiber materials were mainly used in the aerospace field and military products by developed countries such as Europe and the United States. In the 1990s, the application fields continued to expand, starting with sporting goods and now being used in various fields. Many countries in the world can produce carbon fiber, but in terms of scale, quality and production capacity, Japan is the largest producer in the world today.
(2) Carbon fiber application: Sports series watches were the first to use carbon fiber materials for the manufacture of watch cases and dials (Figure 1-3-30). For example, the Mido 90th anniversary model uses carbon fiber dials; Tissot’s many sports watches use carbon fiber cases and dials; the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon watch uses forged carbon cases: Blancpain Speed Command chronograph and Omega Speedmaster The legendary coaxial chronograph uses a carbon fiber dial. BELL&ROSS cleverly matches the carbon fiber base plate with the tourbillon movement, and the sandblasted iron metal case is even more luxurious. Titanium Watch

2. Ceramics

(1) Pottery and porcelain clay is fired into pottery at a high temperature of 600°C, and porcelain is fired at a high temperature of 1300°C.
(2) The main component of precision ceramics is aluminum oxide, which has good processing properties under certain temperature conditions. Through advanced processing methods, it can be made into exquisite watch cases and straps that are smooth, wear-resistant, and non-toxic to the skin. Special methods are used to adjust it into various colors to make it more gorgeous and noble.
(3) High-tech ceramics: After injecting extremely fine aluminum oxide or carbonized powder into the mold at high pressure, it is formed into ceramic parts that are not easy to wear in a sintering furnace at a high temperature of 1450C, and then polished with diamond powder to make a unique glossy high-tech ceramics
When it comes to high-tech ceramics, people immediately think of Swiss radar watches. In fact, ceramics have long emerged as a new force in high-end watches. Traces of precision ceramics can be found on many famous brand watches such as Glashütte, Chanel, and Rolex.
With the development of modern science and technology, the concept of ceramics has penetrated into various fields from life and architecture to electronics, scientific research and other fields. Modern high-tech ceramic table knives have unparalleled advantages of metal: white and soft appearance, round and jade-like color; sharp blade, flexible and convenient cutting, hardness second only to diamond, and wear resistance 60 times that of metal knives. No rust, no discoloration, acid, alkali and corrosion resistance, not easy to stain, easy to clean, healthy and environmentally friendly.

The quality of high-end watches

depends on the characteristics of the materials. The case and strap account for more than 95% of the materials used in watches. Their functions are to protect the movement, be waterproof, antimagnetic, shockproof, beautiful, and easy to carry. Precision ceramics have high strength and surface hardness, are wear-resistant, lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and non-allergenic. The hardness of high-tech ceramics can reach Mohs 8 to 9, which is second only to natural diamonds and much higher than stainless steel. The disadvantage is that it is highly brittle and collisions should be avoided as much as possible during use.  Tourbillon watch

3. Other materials

Mainly refers to the leather materials used to make watch straps. The most commonly used leather is cowhide. In addition, there are sheepskin, crocodile skin, lizard skin, ostrich skin, water snake skin, Congolese snake skin, etc., which are all genuine leather. Of course, in addition to genuine leather, there is also artificial leather, which is generally used in lower-priced watches.
With the rapid development of science and technology, more and more new materials are continuously entering the watch manufacturing industry, and some traditional materials are also taking on new life.

1. Silicone rubber

Silicone rubber, referred to as silicone, is used to make watch straps. The strap must not only fit the wrist comfortably, but also implicitly express a stylized temperament. In addition to traditional steel watch straps and leather watch straps, silicone watch straps have become the first choice among sports watches and diving watches due to their good performance and unique charm.
Silicone watch straps must pass professional tensile testing machines and swing machines to test the strap’s tensile, torsional and anti-aging capabilities, and use folding and tape testing to ensure physical properties. Environmental protection is an important aspect, and the watch strap must undergo non-toxic testing, ultraviolet light resistance UV testing, seawater oxidation resistance testing, and artificial sweat oxidation resistance testing. Silicone straps have low tear resistance, so you need to pay attention when using them.

2. Sapphire and jade

(1) Sapphire glass. The sapphire glass used in watches is artificially synthesized from aluminum oxide. Its hardness is 2200~2300 Width, second only to diamond, and Mohs hardness level 9. It is similar to natural corundum and completely prevents surface wear. Sapphire glass is usually colorless and transparent, and various colors can be produced by adding various chemical elements.
Coated glass is also called anti-reflective glass and anti-glare glass. A thin metal compound film is coated on the surface of sapphire glass to change the optical properties of the glass. Coated glass can be divided into single-sided coating and double-sided coating.
Sapphire crystal cannot be polished on cement floors because the ground may contain diamond or diamond powder and debris, which will scratch the sapphire crystal. Sapphire can be identified by the following methods:

1. Water dripping method: Drop a drop of water on the watch mirror. If the water droplets spread, it indicates that the watch mirror is made of ordinary glass.
If the water droplets do not spread, it is sapphire, but this method is very low-level.
2 Nail scraping method: Use your nails to scratch the watch mirror. If there is a sense of blockage, it means that the material of the watch mirror is ordinary crystal. If it feels smooth and has no resistance, it is sapphire.
3. Hardness tester method: Measure the hardness of the watch mirror material and compare it. This method is the most accurate, but the implementation is more complicated. You can use a “thermal conductivity meter” that measures diamonds for testing.
(2) Mineral crystal glass, commonly known as tempered glass, is hard and wear-resistant.
(3) Synthetic crystal glue is commonly known as “plexiglass”.

(4) Jade usually refers to nephrite or jade, mainly produced in Peru, Alaska, the United States, and Myanmar. The chemical composition of amphibole is calcium magnesium silicate in the amphibole group, with a Mohs hardness of 6.5° and a relative density of 2.9~3. Its colors include white, leaf green, dark green, turquoise, etc.

(5) Jadeite Jadeite is the finest jadeite. It is rare in quantity and high in price. Its chemical composition is aluminum silicate in the pyroxene group. Its Mohs hardness is 6.5~7°, and its relative density is 3.3. Its colors include white, green, transparent, Several types of translucency. In recent years, some Swiss watch factories have also used it in the production of jewelry watches, exuding an oriental jewelry style that is different from diamond watches.

(6) Diamond refers to polished diamond. Diamond is a natural mineral and the raw stone of diamond; sometimes people do not subdivide the two. Diamond is a single crystal composed of carbon formed under high pressure and high temperature conditions deep in the earth. It is one of the most beautiful and valuable substances given to mankind by nature.
The value of a diamond is determined by its color, clarity, cut, and carat.
The color is generally colorless and transparent. If it is subdivided, it can be divided into extremely white, fine white, white, slightly yellowish white (brown, gray), light yellowish white (brown, gray), yellow (brown, gray), etc. The clarity grades of unmounted diamonds are divided into eight grades: LC (IF), VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, and I. The IF grade is the best: the diamond grades that have been set are divided into excellent, very good, good, There are five types of diamonds: good and average; D is the best diamond grade, followed by E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, and N.  WatchesHome Jewelry watch

3. Enamel

Enamel is a decorative process for watch cases and surfaces, often called enamel watches (Figure 1-3-32). According to the technology, it is divided into cloisonné enamel (cloisonné), filled enamel (pressed) and micro-painted enamel.

4. New luminous material – tritium

Gas is a new type of light source that can become an atomic long-bright lamp. It is an environmentally friendly high-tech technology. It has a long glow time and can last for 24 hours. Its service life is more than 10 years or 25 years. It is a rare element that exists only slightly in nature and has no radioactive hazard.

5. New materials for watches and clocks – silicon

Silicon is one of the most important materials in the IT industry, but in recent years it has been introduced into watchmaking.
(1) Starting in 2003, silicon hairsprings, silicon balance wheels, silicon gears, silicon escapements and silicon splints began to appear. This is a watch part made through photography and etching processes. The new process can easily produce micro, complex and precise silicon parts.
(2) Silicon hairspring is the best anti-magnetic and anti-rust, and cannot be compared with any high-quality hairspring in the past.
(3) Parts made of silicone materials do not need to be filled with lubricating oil.
(4) This is a new technology and process of “collective cloning”. High efficiency and low cost, does it mean a new world-wide watch revolution? Currently, many brands such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Swatch Group and Ulysse Nardin have begun to use silicon hairsprings and silicon escape wheels and escapements.  https://watcheshome.com/